Preserving the Harvest (1)

Preserving the Harvest (1)

This article is about ways to preserve the harvest. Making your own pickles and preserves, jams and chutneys, liqueurs and canned veggies is a great way to celebrate the abundant gifts of nature. If you can get the kids involved, it is also a wonderful opportunity to bond and share stories while teaching them essential life skills.

Not too long ago, gardening and making one's own food was considered old-fashioned and tedious work. It was something that belonged to the domain of Grandmothers and country bumpkins. Why bother, if all you need to do is to go down to the supermarket?

But things have changed. Soaring food prices, GM technology and a growing concern over dubious agrochemicals that have crept into our food supplies, more people have turned to gardening and making your own is fashionable again.

While the garden may not cover all your food needs, even producing some of your own food is uniquely satisfying. However, there is one problem: living in a temperate climate, with a limited growing phase, we are subject to the 'feast or famine’ phenomenon. The harvest is plentiful during the warm part of the year, but there is almost nothing to harvest during the winter.

With any luck, the harvest is plentiful enough to provide for the cold season as well - but how can we preserve the abundance, so when winter comes we can still enjoy the fruits of the previous season's labor. What delight it will be then to have tasty reminders of the summer's plenty.

Freezing

These days, freezing is usually considered the easiest and quickest method to preserve anything. It certainly is convenient - if you have a very large freezer, that is. However, it is not a very energy efficient method, and nor is it particularly reliable. Power cuts occur with worrying frequency. And they spell disaster for anything that is stored in the freezer, unless you have an independent back-up power supply.

Luckily, there are many other options as we can learn from history. How did people manage to store things in the days before electricity lit up our world? After all, it is a fairly new invention!

It turns out, our ancestors have been incredibly innovative when it comes to devising methods of preserving foods, although not all are equally suitable for all types of foods and vegetables.

To begin with, it is helpful to consider the growing cycle. The natural life cycle of a plant starts with germination. Gradually, the plant develops and grows and eventually reaches its peak. This process is known as maturation. Most plants are harvested at their peak. From that point on they begin to decay.

No process of preservation can halt this natural cycle of growth and decay, it can only slow it down, or in some ways, progress it. The ultimate aim is to preserve as much of the mineral and vitamin content of a given fruit or vegetable as possible.

Clamps

In the old days, root vegetables such as potatoes, carrots and parsnips were stored in the cellar. They were kept in boxes filled with earth, which were periodically sprinkled with water to keep them moist. In fact, the original purpose of cellars was to provide a cool, dark storage space for foods. Originally, they would have only had a dirt floor. This creates a moist, cool atmosphere that is able to ‘breath'. Unfortunately, modern houses, with their concrete foundations, insulated basements and concrete floors are much less suitable for storing vegetables. That is why people came up with the idea of these special boxes, which imitate the natural conditions.

But even without any kind of basement it is still possible to store vegetables - in a ‘clamp’. A clamp consists of a mound of root vegetables that is laid out on a thick layer of straw, which in turn is covered with earth. Alternatively, one can dig a pit. The base is laid out with wooden planks and straw. The vegetables are stored in the next layer, which is covered and covered with sand and earth. (For instructions, check with a good book on self-sufficiency).

It is important to ensure ventilation - e.g. by allowing the bottom layer of straw to peek through beneath the covering layers of soil. Unfortunately, these methods only work in places where winter temperatures don't fall too low.

Carrots can be stored in containers filled with sand (or in clamps, as described above). They should not be washed and must not be damaged, otherwise they will rot. The green parts should be removed.

Sunchokes, parsnips, leeks, celery and Brussels sprouts can remain in the ground. Mild frosts don't bother them. If need be, a layer of soil, straw or mulch will protect them against damage from hard frosts. Cauliflowers can be 'planted' (with roots attached) in boxes filled with sandy soil. They should be sprinkled with water once in a while.

Root vegetable clamps

For a limited period of time, cucumbers, melons and pumpkins can be stored in suspended nets.  But their high water content makes them liable to rot, especially if they have been bruised.

Onions and garlic should be spread out in the sun until the outer layers dry and turn papery. Thereafter, they can be bundled and hung.

Apples can be stored in a cool, moist, but aerated basement. But, they must be handled gently. Bruised apples will rot. Late varieties are more suitable for long-term storage. Early varieties are better used for immediately. Ideally, apples should be picked as late in the season as possible, when they come off the tree without effort. They should be spread out to dry for a day or so, and then stored singly (wrapped in paper, if possible) and placed on a shelf or in small cardboard storage boxes. Pears can be stored the same way, but prefer slightly cooler temperatures.

Chestnuts keep well in clamps. Check for tiny holes in their shells, which is a tell-tale sign that  they are infested with worms. Pulses and grains can be stored in hessian bags. The bags can be treated with neem spray to deter bugs. Shake the bag occasionally to inhibit the development of insect larvae.

Dehydration

One of the best methods to preserve fruits and vegetables is to dehydrate them. This method has the advantage that the ‘natural goodness' is largely preserved, since only the water is extracted. In hot and dry climates, vegetables and fruits can be dried in the sun, or on special racks. In the colder time of the year, the rack is placed near the fire place or oven. It is difficult to sun dry fruit and veggies in modern apartments. However, one can use the oven to help the process. Arrange the prepared fruit on racks (rather than cookie sheets) that are lined with baking paper. Obviously, thin slices dry faster than thicker ones and juicy fruits take longer than dryer types. The greatest difficulty is to get the temperature right, since many of the nutrients are destroyed at temperature above 40°C. The lowest setting on the dial is usually 50°C degrees (100F). It is better to dry things at a lower temperature for a longer period of time. Keep the oven door slightly ajar to modify the temperature and to let the steam escape.

But even so, keeping the oven running for long periods of time is not very energy efficient and is also a nuisance during the summer, when it is difficult enough to keep the room temperatures bearable.

The best option is a dehydrator. The lower the wattage, the lower the electricity use will be. The best models are expandable (all you to add extra racks), have a timer and an accurate temperature regulator.

To prevent discolouration dip fruits that are vulnerable to oxidation in lemon water (50:50) before drying them. This preserves the natural color. Once dry, and aired out, store the dried goods in air-tight containers (storage jars). Dried fruit and vegetables can keep for ages, as long as they are stored properly. But if they absorb moisture from the atmosphere they will go moldy.

Very juicy fruit should drain for a period of time to reduce the amount of moisture (e.g, pineapple) before drying. Cut the fruit to the desired size and drain in a colander for at least an 1 hour.

Air-drying fruit also has advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage is that it saves on electricity and can be done at a lower temperature, which preserves the vitamins. The disadvantage is that the drying fruit will attract fruit flies. Prolonged drying also encourages mold.

Drying fruit and vegetables correctly requires a bit of practice. Dehydrators make the process a great deal easier and less messy. A major advantage is that the dried material takes up much less space which is handy for storage. Also, dried fruit and veg keep well for long periods of time if stored correctly.

Fruit Leather

Spread pureed fruit blended with honey and ground almonds, or hazelnuts on baking paper, and dry.  Fruit Leather is a very popular snack that also makes an excellent, instant energy, hiking food.

Dried vegetables can be rehydrated by soaking them for a few hours in enough water to cover them; slowly cook them with the remaining water. It took time to remove the water, and it takes time to reabsorb it. If prepared too quickly the veggies will be chewy. The smaller and thinner the slices, the quicker they will reabsorb the water.

dehydration

Lacto-fermentation

Everybody knows (and some actually love) Sauerkraut. But not all Sauerkrauts are created equal. Most commercially available types are produced using salt and vinegar and are pasteurised, which unfortunately, kills off the probiotic substances that make fermented foods like Sauerkraut so beneficial.

Sauerkraut is not the only way in which Cabbage can be fermented. A more interesting variation (to my taste, at least) is Korean Kimchi, which consists of a combination of different vegetables and spices. There are dozens of recipes and plenty of scope for experimentation.

The method of lacto-fermentation is simple, providing one has the right equipment. It does not take much, except a special fermentation crock-pot with a grooved rim. This rim should be half-filled with water, which, once covered with the lid, creates an airlock that prevents air borne bacteria or fungal spores from entering the pot. Another necessary item is a stone or weight to push down the vegetables and keep them submerged in the juices. For smaller amounts, airtight jars (pickling jars) can be used instead.

Cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, onion, garlic, horseradish, celery, bell peppers and pepperonis are well-suited for lacto-fermentation.

Suitable pickling spices include mustard seeds, peppercorns, allspice, juniper, cloves, fenugreek, ajowan, coriander, cumin, chillies, dill, fennel, tarragon, and bay leaves.

Finely cut or shred the vegetables and pack them tightly into the crockpot; sprinkle the spices between the layers of veggies. As the final layer, cover the veggies with a large cabbage or horseradish. Horseradish leaves will help to prevent mold. Prepare enough brine (1oz salt per liter of water) to pour over and cover the vegetables, but don't fill the jar all the way to the top. (You can add a little whey to aid the fermentation process).

If you use fermentation crock-pot, half fill the rim with water (air-lock), place the stone on top of the vegetables and cover with the lid. Keep an eye on the water level in the airlock and replenish with water if it starts to evaporate. Place the jar or crockpot in a warm place for about 10 days, then move it to a cool one for another 6 weeks. Remove any mold that may have formed on the surface. Avoid removing the lid unnecessarily.

Canning

Canning is a great way to preserve foods. Almost anything can be canned and stored for later - and canned goods keep indefinitely, theoretically, at least. In practice, it is recommended to use canned foods within a year or two.

There are basically two different canning methods, one that is suitable for high acid foods, such as fruit, juices, and pickles, and one that is suitable for low acid foods, such as most vegetables, or meats.

There are many good canning recipes and it is best to choose a tried and tested one to avoid disappointment - especially if you are new to canning.

High acid foods are a little easier to process, as they do not require extreme heat to preserve them. Ordinary boiling is sufficient as the acid content inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria. Certain kinds of equipment make the process a great deal easier.

To preserve high acid foods, you need a large pot and rack (for holding the jars in place above the bottom of the pan), canning jars with two-part lids (lid with a rubber rim and band), a canning funnel, a jar lifter and lid magnet. A 'head space' measuring tool and bubble remover can also be useful.

The most important thing about canning is to make sure that all the equipment is squeaky clean and that the produce is immaculate and fresh. Don't be tempted to preserve items that are on the verge of going off, or you will ruin the whole batch.

Prepare the foods according to your recipe, fill into the jars, and cover with a rubber ring and lid. The lids  are held in place with a special little clamp. Canning machines have a rack that is placed at the bottom. If you are using a large pot, you need to find a rack that fits the pot. Place the jars on top of the rack and cover with water . Boil for a set amount of time (according to your recipe) to sterilize the jars.

For a detailed description of the process see:

Canning High Acid Foods

Low acid foods require more care. Since they lack naturally occurring acids, they must be heated to a temperature that is well above boiling to kill any pathogens that otherwise might spoil the fruits of your labor. To achieve such high temperatures you will need a pressure cooker, preferably a purpose made one with a pressure gauge and thermometer.

As with the high acid foods, it is recommended to use a tried and tested recipe. Fill your food into clean jars, cover with lids and place the jars on the rack. Cover with water and sterilize according to the instructions of your recipe.

For a very useful and detailed description of the process, see this presentation:

Canning Low Acid Foods

Pickling

Instead of fermenting foods, many vegetables can be pickled in vinegar. This method is not as wholesome as the lacto-fermentation mentioned above, since it does not create probiotic bacteria in the process. Acid inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria, which is why it serves well as a preserving liquid.

The most important thing about pickling in vinegar is to use non-metal (except stainless steel) and non-plastic containers. Acids can react with such materials. Use glass or stoneware.

Fruit can be pickled in a vinegar /sugar syrup, to make delicious condiments.

Vegetables are often salted for a period of time (overnight) in order to draw out some of their water and to soften the skin. Wash and simmer them for a few minutes before covering them in vinegar and pickling spices. But not for too long. You’ll want the veggies to stay crunchy.

Some recipes call for a vinegar /sugar others for a vinegar /brine blend. Some recommend the vinegar to first be heated (and simmered with various spices) and then cooled before pouring it over the vegetables, other recipes call for hot vinegar. Pickling provides endless scope for experimentation.

Preserving in Oil

Oil in itself does not ward off bacteria, but it creates an effective barrier and thus prevents oxidation. To preserve vegetables in oil they are usually cooked in either brine or vinegar first, for a short period of time. The idea is to preserve the crunchiness. Place the veggies into a jar and cover with oil. Start with a layer of oil before adding the veggies, as this will prevent air bubbles. Make sure the contents remain covered in oil even once you start to use the preserve. Use good cooking oil - olive oil is ideal, as it has a good balance of fatty acids and resists oxidation.

Preserving in Sugar/Syrup

That sugar isn’t healthy is not the latest discovery of science. It depletes vitamin B1 and calcium and destroys the teeth. However, for certain things sugar is an ideal preserving agent - just as with any other harmful substance, there is a direct correlation between the level of damage and the amount consumed. Sugar preserves include jams, jellies, marmalade, syrup and candied fruit. For jams and jellies it is usually necessary to add pectin (or use preserving sugar) in order to achieve the proper consistency.

If you use lemon or orange peel in your recipes make sure it comes from organic citrus fruit.

Preserving nature's bounty is an art and no novice will immediately master all methods. But it is a great joy to preserve the harvest and to create unique tasty treats, just exactly the way you like them. No commercial enterprise can even come close to that. All it takes is a spirit of experimentation and discovery.

It is also a lot of work - but it is SO worthwhile when, in the midst of winter, you can still feast on jars and cans filled with the sunshine and goodness of the previous harvest.

Resources:

National Center for Home Food Preservation

FAO Leaflet Small-scale Post-Harvest Handling Practices

jam
Gardening Jobs in May

Gardening Jobs in May

Gardening Jobs in May

What gardening jobs are there to do in May? Where I live, April has been unusually cool and wet. I didn’t get all my April jobs done, and my ‘gardening jobs agenda’ for May is rather full. The wheel of the year is turning, and the garden does not wait.

Potatoes

If you planted all your potatoes in April, they are probably developing their first leaves by now. It’s time to earth them up now. Cover the leaves with soil, and only let the tops peek out. Repeat this process regularly as the plants grow and develop.

Sweet Corn

If you are planting sweet corn, you can now sow them in deep pots indoors. That will give them a head-start. Transplant them to a sunny spot in June.

Beans

Once there is no more risk of late frosts, you can sow all kinds of beans outside (runner, broad, dwarf). They like a sunny spot, but not too hot. Protect them from the slugs and snails—young bean shoots are their favourite snack. If slugs are a big problem, start the plants in seed trays and transplant them only once they are strong enough to withstand a slug attack.

 

Warmth-loving plants: Tomatoes, Peppers, Courgettes, Aubergines

Your tomato, aubergine and pepper plants are probably growing fast now. There comes a point when they seem to yell, ‘Get me out of here and plant me into the garden!’ Resist the temptation unless there is no more danger of late frosts in your growing zone. But, to appease them, you can harden them off. Take them outside during the day, but bring them back in at night until night temperatures are reliably around 10 °C.

You can also still sow cucumbers and melons—but keep them warm and protected for now.

Salad Veg and Greens

Sow batches of salad vegetables like radishes, lettuce, Swiss chard and Arugula/Rocket, to ensure a continuous supply.

Root crops

You can still sow root crops such as carrots, beetroots, leeks and turnips.

Winter Veg

Sow Leeks and brassicas for overwintering. It is best to start them off indoors to protect them from slug- and insect attacks.

Kitchen Herbs

It is also the perfect time to sow warmth-loving herbs such as basil and coriander. Protect them against attacks from ravenous slugs.

Weeds

May is lush! Everything sprouts and grows - including the weeds. But no need to curse them - if you can’t beat them, eat them! Check your garden weeds to see if they are edible and could go into a ‘foraged’ dinner. Bishop’s Weed, Stinging Nettles, Ground Ivy, Wild Garlic and Dandelion are all excellent in the ‘wild food cuisines’.

Flowers

Sow annuals like Californian Poppies, or nasturtiums in any gaps in your borders for extra colour in the summer. The bees and insects will thank you.

Maintenance Jobs

There are always maintenance jobs that need to be taken care of:

  • If you have a pond, check for pondweed and algae and clean it out if necessary.
  • Build supports for climbing plants.

Keep bird feeders and birdbaths clean.

Happy Gardening!

 

 

 

Check out SeedsNow for your organic gardening supplies.

#Ads

Disclosure: To support the website, I receive a small commission from qualifying purchases readers like you make on the affiliate site(s) linked to in this article, without any extra cost to you.

Happy Beltane!

Happy Beltane!

Happy Beltane!

On May 1, we celebrate Beltane, the festival of spring.

Mother Earth is donning her lushest gown of flowers and blossoms, and birds are singing from the trees. The heart rejoices, and the spirit soars!

Beltane is the season of blossoming fertility, joy, abundance and creativity. We celebrate the sheer miracle of life in all its beauty.

The God and the Goddess embody the undying force of life, and they are in love. Nature mirrors their bliss. Their dance turns the land green and lush with every step. Every fragrant flower is a kiss and a blessing, a sign of their adoration.

We are invited to join them and share in their passion. Let's celebrate life! Beauty, love, and merry-making are our rituals, and the energy is tangible.

Gardeners witness and partake in this magic as they nurture young seedlings. But even if you don't have a garden, you can still participate - just tend to your inner garden! Pour energy into your budding projects, and you will experience a similar phenomenon - the magic of creativity.

The secret ingredient of manifestation is the love and nurture with which we tend to our seed ideas.

Take the time to reflect on Mother Nature’s generosity, and practice gratitude and mindfulness to attune to every nuance of this blessed season.

Photo credit: Image by Ronny Overhate from Pixabay

Gardening Jobs for March

Gardening Jobs for March

Gardening Jobs in March

March is 'busy season'. As soon as the sun comes out, and it's warm (and dry) enough to be outside, every gardener itches to get their hands into the dirt again. But where to start?

 

Preparing the vegetable beds

Once the ground has thawed and dried off a bit, it's time to get going with the preparations:

1) It is a good idea to get rid of the weeds early on (especially the perennial or biennial ones). They will be half the trouble later on.

2) If you haven't done it yet, start tidying up the garden: dead-heading old flower heads and clearing everything that has died off. But, remember that butterfly larvae overwinter on old nettles and such. Nettles support some 40 species of insects and butterflies!

If fresh, you already have young nettles coming up, make the most of this wonderful early wild vegetable. Consider leaving some standing year-round for the wildlife, if you have a spot where they are not in the way.

3) Work in plenty of good, home-grown compost into the vegetable plots and prepare the soil to get a fine crumb. This will make it a lot easier for your seedlings to break through the crust.

What to sow in March?

Your sowing schedule largely depends on your growing zone and whether you have a suitable space to start seedlings indoors. If you live in a mild climate, you can sow some hardier, early varieties out in the open, as early as March. But frost-sensitive plants, like tomatoes, should be started indoors. Lettuce and radishes do well in a cold frame. The shorter your growing season, the earlier you need to start your seeds indoors on the windowsill. That way, they will get a head start, which prolongs the growing season. By the time there is no more danger of late ground frosts, they will have developed into little plants that are more resilient by the time you plant them out. 

 

Indoors or under glass

You can sow fennel, broccoli, kohlrabi, cabbage (early varieties), Savoy cabbage, Malabar spinach (late March), New Zealand spinach, carrots, autumn leeks, and celery either in the cold frame or indoors. Warmth-loving plants, like tomatoes, zucchini, aubergines and chillies, fennel, and bell pepper, do best when started indoors in an environment of about 20°C.

On sunny days, don't forget to open the cold frame to give your seedlings some air - otherwise, they will get baked under the glass.

Most importantly, make sure your seedlings never dry, after sowing them. Water is life - they cannot grow without it.

Outdoors

Onion sets can be planted out in March. Beetroots, Swiss chard, lettuce, (also Asian lettuce, peas, rocket, radishes, and nasturtiums are all hardy enough to be sown directly into your well-prepared veggie plots. 

 

Check out SeedsNow for your organic gardening supplies!

#Ads

Disclosure: I earn a small commission from affiliate links to help support the site.

Gardening Jobs in February

Gardening Jobs in February

What kind of gardening jobs can there possibly be in February?

In the middle of February, I itch to get back into gardening. Granted, it's early days, and there isn't that much to do - but there is always something, even as early as February.∗

It is still winter, and the weather has been pretty wild and stormy, but I have spotted the first snowdrops, and even the first Winter Aconite is out! They are such a welcome sight - tentative signs that spring is on its way. Even though temperatures are far from balmy, Mother Earth is stirring...

It's a botanical wake-up call. Suddenly, I feel restless, itching to do some gardening. But where to start, and what to do?

Crocus

(Crocus vernus)

The spring crocus is one of the most cherished spring flowers. Its flowers come in many different colors and to me, they are reminiscent of Easter Eggs - although Easter is still a long way away. It is the shape of the balloon-like flowers that create this association in my mind. Like the other early flowering plants, it too makes the most of dry sunny weather, to attract early pollinators, but close their flowers to protect their delicate parts as soon as cold or rainy weather is on the way.

Winter Aconite

(Eranthis hyemalis)

Like miniature suns, these golden stars warm the heart in early spring. Daringly, they open up fully to the first warming rays of the sun. But they are not stupid. As soon as the sky clouds over, they fold up their petals to keep their stamens and stigma protected and warm. While heart-warming and pretty to behold, it is good to remember that this is a Ranunculus species and all of its parts are poisonous.

Cyclamen

(Cyclamen coum)

Cyclamens are so cute! Their pink little flowers remind me of piglets, with the snout pointing down and their ears (petals) flying in the wind, so to speak. The dainty flowers appear to be 'inside-out', seemingly exposing their pollinating parts. But that isn't actually the case. Their delicate stamens and sepals are sheltered inside the 'snout', which forms a tubular structure that protects them against the elements. 

Snowdrops

(Galanthus nivalis) 

These tender little flowers are the most daring of all! Long before other flowers wake up, this one has sent its spear-like flowers up, even piercing the snow, if necessary. Its bell-like dangles tenuously on the stem, protecting itself from the elements by facing the earth, rather than the sky, its petals sheltering the stamen and stigma. Snowdrops are heralds of hope at a time when winter is still raging. The message is clear. It's early days yet, but spring IS on the way. Life will return...soon.

Indoor Gardening

 

Start some long-season plants indoors

I live in climate zone 7/8, so in February, gardening starts indoors. My house turns into a potting shed. I am not suggesting you should do the same. Maybe you are better organised. Perhaps you have a greenhouse or a heated cold frame where you can start the earliest seeds, protected from the cold.

If you live in northern latitudes, the growing season is limited. But you can extend it as far as possible by starting long-season plants, like chilli peppers or aubergines, in February indoors.

All you need are some starter trays and sterile starter soil that is not too nutrient-rich. It needs to be sterile so that your tender seedlings won't have to compete for nutrients against random weeds whose seeds are lurking in the soil. This is especially important for slow-germinating seeds. Garden centres and DIY stores sell trays and starter soil, or you can make your own.

DIY seed trays

Those fancy seed trays make things a little easier: they often come with a clear plastic lid to prevent the moisture from evaporating. Sometimes, they even have a mechanism to open them without having to take the lid off. But you don’t really need that fancy stuff. It is easy to improvise by recycling your yoghurt pots, other plastic containers, or even empty milk cartons.

The right time

Here are the rules: 

  1. Start warmth-loving, long-season plants 8-10 weeks before the last expected frost in your area. 
  2. Water the seeds regularly with a watering sprayer to keep the soil moist, and if you use the DIY trays, cover them with cling film. 
  3. Place the starter trays in a bright, warm spot, and you should see the first seedlings pop up after 7-10 days, on average. 
  4. Don't let the seedlings dry out! That would kill them! 
  5. Once all danger of frost has passed and soil temperatures have risen to about 15 °C/60 °F, you can begin hardening off your ‘babies’ before you transfer them to their permanent spots.
  6.  Harden off the plants by placing them outside during warm days and covering them at night.  

--------------------------------------------------------------------

At least, this applies to those in the Northern Hemisphere who live in growing zones 7-8. Every climate zone is different, and you may have a microclimate, so take this as general guidelines - there are no guarantees.

You might also be interested in:

Garden Planning

How to plan a garden

Before you plant anything, try to really understand your garden.

Garden Planning for Success

Topiaria Gaudium

There is a strange fever going around. Strangely, it only affects gardeners: ‘Topiaria Gaudium Fever’. It is a special condition marked by high levels of excitement caused by the anticipation of the new gardening season.

what to sow in January

What to Sow in January

Here are some veggies you can sow (indoors or under glass) at the end of January (about 4 weeks before the last expected frost):

Outdoor Gardening Jobs

Once the snow has melted and the soil has dried off, it is time to get busy and prepare the beds.

Loosen the soil and get rid of any invasive weeds. (Some may well be edible!) Mix in some fresh compost. Beds that won't be used immediately should be mulched. Let the soil settle until the temperatures are high enough to transfer your first seedlings or sow directly into the prepared bed.

Sowing directly into the soil

Sow hardy crops, such as peas, early varieties of radish, parsley, spinach, carrots, lettuce, and onion sets directly into the soil. If you are worried about late frosts, start them in a cold frame and wait to transfer them until the soil has warmed to about 15 °C.

Carrots and parsley can be slow to sprout. You can start them in a dish of wet sand. Leave the dish in the cold for about a week, then take it indoors, and you should see your carrots sprout quickly. Carrots and root parsley like loose and even soil. Prepare their permanent spot well. Mix sand and garden soil and sift them together to create light soil.

Potatoes

Towards the end of February, you can start 'chitting' your spuds. For best results, use seed potatoes. Lay them out in egg cartons and put them in a sunny spot on the windowsill, with the side with the most 'eyes' facing up. Let them sprout for 5-6 weeks before planting them out.

Wait until early March or April, before sowing less hardy crops.

To avoid all your plants being ready for harvest at once, you can sow successively with a 10-day interval for a longer season.

Happy gardening!

Check out SeedsNow for your organic gardening supplies and Shop for Organic Vegetable Gardening Books.

Disclosure: The links to outside resources and books are affiliate links from which I earn a small commission to support this website.